Blind Pig Bistro Shows Promise

The little space formerly occupied by Sitka & Spruce is once again Allison Austin Scheff's kind of j
Allison Austin Scheff  |   April 2012   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION

The little space that began as a doughnut shop, then became Matt Dillon’s legendary Sitka & Spruce (which has since moved to the Melrose Market) and was later home to the sadly short-lived Nettletown, has a promising new tennant. Blind Pig, opened in the late fall by Charles Walpole (recently of Anchovies & Olives), continues the winning streak: The food inside the snug space—now wearing a coat of blood red paint—is mostly great.

Walpole hired Matt Fortner (late of How to Cook a Wolf) to cook by his side, and the menu changes daily, depending on the seasons and the chefs’ moods: recently, hamachi popped with chiles cooled by green apple and avocado; and (a bit too salty) kale ribbons mixed with quinoa and a warm poached egg, the kind of dish you might dream up while scanning the fridge late at night, then feel like a genius for putting together.

It’s a menu by chefs for chefs—fresh, unfussy food cooked just right, such as oysters on the half shell; pâté with sweet raisins, mustard and a little celery root; and mackerel with chorizo and turnips. Good, predominantly European wines by the glass, service that doesn’t slack: Blind Pig is my kind of joint.

Dinner Tue.–Sat. Eastlake, 2238 Eastlake Ave. E; 206.329.2744. $$

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