Crepes, Sandwiches at Citizen

Queen Anne welcomes a mellow neighborhood eatery.
Lorna Yee  |   February 2010   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION

For some folks who live within stumbling distance, Sunday mornings have become synonymous with inexpensive mimosas and heartily stuffed crêpes at Citizen.

This laid-back neighborhood spot, open since September, is full of charm and character, reminiscent of a New York artist loft studio: plenty of exposed brick, a wrought iron and wood staircase that leads to a cozy hideaway with a few tables, and what looks to be a well-loved couch and coffee table.

But if you’re in a hurry, the décor won’t make up for the 30-minute wait for a simple sandwich and crêpe order—tolerable on mornings when the room is bustling and the vibe convivial, but not so appealing when the dining room is less than half full, and the servers and cooks are moving as slow as molasses.

Citizen’s sister restaurant is Georgetown’s Hangar Café, also known for its crêpes. The same care is taken here, with the crêpes arriving thin, barely colored and ultra-tender. The sweet crêpes are better executed than the savory: homemade lemon curd and warmed strawberries ($7.25) or the caramelized apples with Brie and walnuts ($7.25). The savory crêpe that I tried, with bacon, goat cheese and arugula ($9), was too sparsely seasoned.

Even less successful are the sandwiches: The pulled pork ($6.75) comes slathered with a cloying, house-made barbecue sauce; and the spicy tofu sandwich ($6) is covered in gobs of mayonnaise-like dressing, bland, barely pickled carrots and daikon, and three slivers of jalapeño—not quite enough to give it kick.

Still, for a neighborhood with few coffee shops in walking distance, Citizen is a welcome addition, serving Lighthouse coffee, cheap wine (many glasses only $5, all bottles less than $20) and light fare. Just be prepared to wait for it. Queen Anne, 706 Taylor Ave. N; 206.284.1015. ¢

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