Bistro Turkuaz's Must-try Dolmades

Chef Ugur Oskay proves not every dolma is created equal.
Allison Austin Scheff  |   May 2011   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION
Tender, complex and colorful: these dolmades from Bistro Turkuaz in Madrona are extraordinary

The loveliness of Bistro Turkuaz—small, intimate, warm—is the sort confided only to our best friends. Those of us who adore the place want to keep it to ourselves. But sometimes a taste is so marvelous, it’s impossible not to share the news. Such is the case with chef Ugur Oskay’s dolmades ($7). Others are often thick-skinned and fibrous, but Oskay’s dolma is brilliant: tender grape leaves gently rolled around rice fragrant with lemon, lively snippets of mint and itty bits of currant, with savory pine nuttiness coming up behind. The extra care that obviously goes into the making of these fork-tender rolls is, like so much about this wee spot, extraordinary.

Madrona, 1114 34th Ave.; 206.324.3039; bistroturkuaz.com.

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