Food We Love: Eggplant Fries at Poppy

Allison Austin Scheff  |   November 2013   |  FROM THE PRINT EDITION

It’s easy to overlook the simpler-sounding appetizers at Poppy, what with tender pan-fried mussels with lovage and plump oysters on the half shell vying for your attention. There are all sorts of delicious temptations, but I’d argue that one of the dishes that’s been on the menu since the first day is also one of the restaurant’s most irresistible: Poppy’s eggplant fries with buckwheat honey and sea salt ($8). Chef and owner Jerry Traunfeld fries the purple fruit (like tomatoes, it’s a vegetable that’s technically a fruit) until golden and crisp on the outside, creamy on the inside, and then he salts them while they’re warm and drizzles on a touch of honey. You get to satisfy your salty-sweet cravings and eat your veggies, too.