Restaurant Review: June

A starched interior gives way to insanely good honey-cured pork chops

It’s bittersweet to see that the lovely gray wallpaper that once graced the interior of Madrona’s Cremant has come down, making way for June’s similar look of starched sophistication—matte-gray banquettes punched up with grass-green chairs and vaguely nautical lampshades. But as long as chef/owner Vuong Loc keeps that insanely good honey-cured pork chop on his menu forever and ever, amen, I’ll get over it. The impossibly tender, perfectly medium-rare chop ($19) dominates a plate of hand-plucked sweet peas sautéed with country ham in a simple but stunning pan sauce. I also loved the pleasing chewiness of the farro with raisins, green beans and almond butter ($17). Judging by the perfectly roasted chicken with woodsy spring morel mushrooms and fava beans ($18), and the flash-fried marble (purple and white) potatoes with homemade aioli ($4.50), Loc has a knack for turning dinner staples into simple stunners. And unlike Loc’s other restaurant, the date-ready Portage, June gives more than lip service to family friendliness: A three-course family dinner is available for $20 per person (with a minimum of four orders), and kids younger than 8 eat free. Dinner nightly. Madrona, 1423 34th Ave.; 206.323.4000. $$

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