Henry’s Taiwan

Henry’s is in a small box of a building just past the Chinatown gate. The lunch business is brisk and mostly eat-in, and lest I make it sound as if it’s made up entirely of stinky-tofu fans, the three-page menu lists several other dishes. I had a little solo dim sum experience there the other day, with an order of wontons in chile sauce ($4.95) and beef bing ($4.95)—a big, flat, absurdly juicy dumpling, not entirely unlike meatloaf in a dumpling wrapper. Gawking at neighboring tables, I was also drawn to the Taiwanese pan-fried noodles ($6.95), a simple lo mein–like dish with pork and mushrooms that was enough for two lunches and reheated perfectly.