Seashell-white clapboard walls, honey-toned wainscoting on the ceiling and a laid-back, drop-in-for-a-brewski appeal—Pike Street Fish Fry feels like a seashore fish shack. Except, of course, for the proliferation of ironic mullets and skinny jeans worn by the Capitol Hill clientele. Still, with myriad seafood choices, including fried whole smelt ($4), finger-licking house-made aiolis and just-picked seasonal veggies, it’s a clever marriage of old Seattle (fried fish to go, for cheap) and new Seattle (seasonal, local, low-key hip). Of course, we have Portland expat Michael Hebb (who recently changed his name from Hebberoy) of underground restaurant One Pot fame, to thank for this perfectly Seattle place. Hebb—along with several partners—debuted Fish Fry in May. Chef Monica Dimas works the fryers in the open kitchen, charring tender octopus tentacles on the grill ($7) and frying up tempura-style asparagus spears, which I dipped into the incredible lemon aioli ($5). Lemons also appear as paper-thin, fried treats; served with every fried fish order, they’re a serendipitous touch. Do note: Fish Fry’s got just one booth, leaving the rest of us to lean on long, tall communal eating bars or take our fish to go. Dinner daily. Capitol Hill, 925 E Pike St. ¢.
Photo by Victoria Lahti