Oysters Rockafeller

Dining critic Allison Austin Scheff discovers bivalve bliss at Shuckers.

Usually, I’m an oyster purist: raw, on the half shell, with nothing but seawater and its own liquor to slurp down. But at Shuckers, the clubby oyster bar tucked ac a corner of the Fairmont Olympic Hotel (downtown, 411 University St.; 206.621.1984; fairmont.com), the old-school mahogany furnishings, plush banquettes and brass accents work their magic, and I find myself ordering Oysters Rockefeller ($3.25 each, $15.50/half-dozen, $29/dozen) instead. Roasted under a tangle of freshly wilted spinach and blanketed in warm, buttery hollandaise sauce, the still-soft oysters add just a tinge of minerality and a silken texture. In the depths of winter, with the hubbub of the holidays over, a plate of these luxurious beauties is mighty fine indeed.