Charming Brunch Options at Wandering Goose

Wandering Goose is a little slip of a place—and charming for it.

By Seattle Mag


April 5, 2013

This article originally appeared in the March 2013 issue of Seattle Magazine.

The charms of Heather Earnhardt’s Wandering Goose are many: church pews for banquettes, lampshades made of flour sacks, poppies blooming royal red on the walls. In a slice of space adjoining Ethan Stowell’s Rione XIII (and visible through a stretch of reclaimed windows), the former co-owner of Volunteer Park Café is making buttermilk biscuit sandwiches and breakfast/brunch plates.

Go with the latter: I dig the outstanding Bubble and Squeek (brisket over veggies with poached eggs, $11) and the big, beautiful fried oyster sandwich on white bread with pepper jelly and bacon ($11). The biscuit sandwiches can be rather dry—the fried chicken skin in the Aunt Annie’s sandwich ($8) clung thickly to the biscuit—or salty; that country ham on the Original ($7.75) needs more than cheese and an egg to balance it. The pastry case is a sanctuary: coffee cake, cookies, pie? All good.

Breakfast and lunch daily, dinner Fri. Capitol Hill, 403 15th Ave. E; 206.323.9938; $