Food & Culture

Ballard’s Sawyer Delights With Playful, Refined Dishes

A veteran of Lark finds his own voice in the best new restaurant in Ballard

By Chelsea Lin November 30, 2018

1_78

This article originally appeared in the December 2018 issue of Seattle Magazine.

This article appears in print in the December 2018 issue. Click here to subscribe.

Just a few years ago, the trend in finer dining was to create ultraprecise “tweezer food,” as it came to be known—artistic (though arguably too fussy) dishes in which chefs used tweezers to meticulously place ingredients, such as each leaf of microgreen. Thankfully, the backlash from diners, food critics and some fun-loving chefs has resulted in more whimsical, playful food that is no less delicious—or less beautiful, for that matter. The perfect example of this is at Sawyer.
Former Lark chef de cuisine Mitch Mayers opened the Ballard eatery in early August in the 4,700-square-foot space that formerly housed Kickin’ Boot (and long before that, a sawmill in the 1920s). Where that restaurant was dark and broody, Sawyer is bright, timeless and manages to feel intimate for a place that seats 115, thanks to a puzzle of little booths.

The menu of shareable plates is light-hearted but substantial: oxtail nachos ($17), cheesy bread with ’nduja and pimento cheese ($8) and s’more choco tacos ($9) are all hits. They draw on Mayers’ family history of running concession stands at fairs. With dishes like the excellent rotisserie porchetta (served with house-made flatbread, $32), he also shows off the skills that earned him Seattle’s top spot for two years running in the annual Cochon555 porcine cooking competition. “I love junk food,” he says. “I think it’s fun, approachable food.”

KITCHEN CAPTAIN: Chef Mitch Mayers takes his love of junk food and turns it into creative, playful dishes 

The key to getting the most out of a visit to Sawyer is to go with a big enough group that you get to try a little of everything on the menu; it’s a menu that taps into our collective nostalgia. Mayers’ version of “junk food” has a way of making us feel like kids again—kids with a (slightly) more refined palate and bigger bank account.

Mayers is hoping this will become a neighborhood staple. I just wish I lived next door. 

MUST TRY: Although the choco tacos are excellent and shouldn’t be missed, also be sure to order Mayers’ version of a Dairy Queen Dilly Bar, which comes covered in a Theo dark chocolate magic shell and is presented stuck vertically in a bowl of cookie dough semifreddo ($4).

Ballard, 5309 22nd Ave. NW, Suite A; 206.420.7225

Follow Us

What’s All the Fuss About? 

What’s All the Fuss About? 

Let these Seattle-area restaurants take the Thanksgiving cooking reins

The countdown kicks off earlier each year. Turkey window decals peck at the heels of the skeletons. Soggy brown leaves lay scattered across roads, sidewalks, and yards. From misty blue mornings to frigid evenings, we hear you, nature. It’s time to eat, drink, and be merry. If you’re looking to remove the stress from your…

Five Things to Eat in November

Five Things to Eat in November

No need to wait for the holiday spread. Make every meal as comforting and celebratory as the feast ahead.

So often around this time of year, our attention turns to the holiday feast — the giant bird, abundant sides, and numerous pies — such that we forget how everyday meals can be regular opportunities to treat ourselves. Family-owned restaurants are returning to classic recipes and bringing a sense of comfort and ease to our…

Eat Your Vegetables

Eat Your Vegetables

Make the most of seasonal produce with these recipes

The parking garage is under a vitamin shop, across the street from an apartment complex. It’s trash pickup day so the garbage cans are stinky and overflowing. A few crows bounce through puddles in the alley, waiting for me to pass so they can get back to doing whatever it is crows do when no…

Westfield Southcenter launches Restaurant Row

Westfield Southcenter launches Restaurant Row

The mall is in the midst of a culinary upgrade

Get ready for Restaurant Row at Westfield Southcenter. The entire north side of the Tukwila shopping center has established a new dining district. Dubbed “Restaurant Row,” the emerging culinary hub is introducing several new concepts, beginning with Mr. Dim sum this winter. Gen Korean and another new concept will open later next year. Each restaurant…