Skip to content

Food & Drink

Cocktail of the Month: Have the Last Laugh at Seattle Hotel Bar Ben Paris

A classic drink once revived by a Seattle legend gets an effervescent update

By AJ Rathbun September 9, 2019

1_lead_SEM10423_0919_Bar_Method_Ben_Paris_BenParis_TC_0090

This article originally appeared in the September 2019 issue of Seattle magazine.

This article appears in print in the September 2019 issue. Click here to subscribe.

The History: Although it was created at the Detroit Athletic Club in the early 1900s, the Last Word—a cocktail made with gin, lime, green Chartreuse and maraschino liqueur—has intriguing ties to Seattle bar history. Its first run of popularity was extended by famous vaudevillian performer Frank Fogarty, known as “The Dublin Minstrel,” who brought the drink from Detroit to New York City. Sadly, like many delicious tipples of that time, it vanished, for the most part, during Prohibition. Fortunately, it was reintroduced to the cocktail world by legendary Seattle bartender Murray Stenson. He unearthed it and added it to the Zig Zag Café menu in 2004, where this balanced beauty’s fame was quickly rekindled, the equal amounts of its four core ingredients creating a perfect playfulness between the gin’s juniper, the herbal Chartreuse, tangy lime and nutty maraschino.

The Update: The Last Laugh cocktail, a variation on the Last Word, also has a New York–Seattle connection. It was created by Abigail Gullo, assistant general manager of stunning new downtown hotel bar Ben Paris. Gullo, a recent Seattle transplant after a stint in New Orleans, lived in NYC a decade ago, working at award-winning bars such as Fort Defiance. She describes that time as “the Wild Wild West–like world of the early cocktail movement.” When she was creating the Last Laugh, her goal was for the new cocktail “to be a bit lighter, both in flavor and alcohol.” Thus, the addition of the sparkling Spanish wine Cava to the traditional gin mix.

The Final Taste: The Last Laugh contains its predecessor’s balance, but the sparkling Cava delivers delicate bubbly notes to the party and turns it from a cocktail-hour hit into a lighter after-dinner drink. It can be found on the bar’s Dessert Cocktails menu (though you can order it anytime). That Cava also influenced the drink’s moniker: “I named it the Last Laugh because the bubbles from the Cava tickled [my] nose and made me giggle,” Gullo explains. That sense of fun pervades the downtown bar and restaurant, with its animal-themed Kyler Martz mural and vibrant (bordering on noisy) dining room full of downtown workers and hotel guests during happy hour. 

Follow Us

Seattle’s Oktoberfest Celebrations Are Back

Seattle’s Oktoberfest Celebrations Are Back

From Fremont’s frothy brews to Capitol Hill’s Bavarian feast, the city is ready to raise a glass (or five) to Oktoberfest

It’s that time of year when Seattle gets its German on. Whether you’re here for the beer, the bratwurst, or just an excuse to wear lederhosen, there’s an Oktoberfest event that’s calling your name...

All Things Rainier In Georgetown

All Things Rainier In Georgetown

A wild celebration of an iconic Seattle brand

All things Rainier will be celebrated Sept. 21 on “R-Day” in Seattle’s Georgetown neighborhood...

Rooftop Brew Takes Steps to Recover From Devastating Fire

Rooftop Brew Takes Steps to Recover From Devastating Fire

Owner Craig Christian says he’s ‘leaning on our community for help’

Craig Christian is surprisingly upbeat, even as he looks into the blackened interior of the business he’s put his life into for the past 15 years...

Seattle’s Hidden Haunts

Seattle’s Hidden Haunts

A look at a few of our favorite speakeasies

With secret passwords, personalized cocktails, and an atmosphere rooted in history, these establishments are not like typical bars, but experiences that capture the essence of a bygone era, where excitement begins right at the door...