Food & Culture

Near-Beer Seer

Figurehead’s Bob Monroe has a uniquely personal reason for creating a nonalcoholic craft beer

By Rob Smith June 16, 2022

Figurehead_StudioSelects-53

This article originally appeared in the March/April 2022 issue of Seattle Magazine.

It’s been years since Bob Monroe has had more than a sip of his own beer. That’s about to change.

Shortly after cofounding the popular Figurehead Brewing Co. in Seattle five years ago, Monroe got some surprising news: He had an autoimmune disease that makes him prone to pancreatitis. He was told if he continued to drink, he ran the risk of contracting diabetes. His beer-drinking days were over.

That’s tough news for someone who makes a living brewing and selling beer, but Monroe had a young child and a second on the way. He had no interest in playing roulette with his health.

He did, however, maintain his passion for brewing and his taste for beer. He sometimes turned to the nonalcoholic variety to sate his cravings. Now he’s out to brew his own. If all goes according to plan, Figurehead, whose popular tasting room is near Seattle’s Fishermen’s Terminal, will release its first nonalcoholic craft beer by the end of the year.

“I’ve been thinking about this for a little over a year now,” says Monroe, who still samples his own brew during the tasting process before swishing then spitting it out. He notes that nonalcoholic beer is more expensive to brew because of the extra steps in removing the alcohol after the fermentation process.

He also says that unlike in the mainstream craft beer community, brewers of nonalcoholic beer are reluctant to share techniques and recipes.

“I think it’s considered almost a trade secret because it takes a lot to develop these methods to produce something that tastes like beer but without the alcohol,” Monroe says. “Everybody’s super tight-lipped.”

The nonalcoholic craft beer market is growing, primarily among consumers between the ages of 25 and 34. Data firm Research and Markets predicts the global market will exceed $23 billion in the next three years, an annual growth rate of almost 9%.

Figurehead customers increasingly ask Monroe for nonalcoholic options, though they’re still a distinct minority. He’s been “messing around” with hop water, basically sparkling water with hops in it, and hop-infused teas.

Monroe knows of only one other brewer based in the state, Three Magnets Brewing in Olympia, which produces nonalcoholic craft beer. But it should surprise no one if the idea takes off. Washington is among the nation’s leading craft-brewing states, with an annual economic impact of about $1.5 billion in 2019.

Monroe chronicles the journey on the Figurehead Brewing blog.

Join The Must List

Sign up and get Seattle's best events delivered to your inbox every week.

Follow Us

No booze in Seattle? No problem

No booze in Seattle? No problem

Seattle is a national leader in the booming nonalcoholic drink category

Kamp Social House in Madison Valley is alive on a Friday night. Customers pile up by the front door and politely squeeze past each other in the narrow path to the host stand, hoping to snag a table, but the place to be is on a bar stool, talking to bartenders Jeannie and Angela. Jeannie…

Stoup to Buy Optimism Brewing

Stoup to Buy Optimism Brewing

The planned sale allows Stoup to expand with a Capitol Hill location

Two-well known Seattle breweries are joining forces. Ballard’s Stoup Brewing has signed a deal to acquire Optimism Brewing. The acquisition will allow Stoup to open a location at Optimism’s spacious, 16,000-square-foot Capitol Hill space in August. Husband-and-wife team Lara Zahaba and Brad Benson, along with Robyn Schumacher, opened Stoup in 2013 as a cornerstone of…

Washington's Craft Breweries: Our Pint Runneth Over

Washington’s Craft Breweries: Our Pint Runneth Over

Craft brewers keep the kettles cooking

Those who want to enjoy a cold craft beer in Washington state have no shortage of options. The state has 437 craft breweries, according to the 2021 report from the Brewers Association. This trade group based in Boulder, Colorado, represents small and independent craft brewers across the United States. That’s up significantly from 2011, when…

No Need to Wait Until the Holiday Season to Pop These Bubbles From Washington State

No Need to Wait Until the Holiday Season to Pop These Bubbles From Washington State

The best sparkling wines for fall

Reality check: sparkling wine doesn’t only have to be uncorked during the holidays or hot weather. In fact, it shouldn’t be reserved exclusively for New Year’s Eve while wearing those stupid glasses molded into the shape of numbers and/or enough sequins to power a drag show. Nor should it only be for summertime wedding toasts…