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Food & Drink

A Big Week For Atoma

Year-old Wallingford hotspot nabs best new restaurant awards

By Rob Smith December 4, 2024

Left: Interior of a rustic restaurant with wooden furnishings, exuding a charming Atoma vibe. Right: Person holding plates with various small appetizers, ready to delight guests during this Big Week event with toast and pastries.
Photos courtesy of Atoma

It’s only Wednesday, but it’s been quite a week for Atoma.

The Wallingford restaurant has racked up some impressive honors this week, including being named Esquire’s Best New Restaurant in America. Earlier this week, Eater also named the year-old Wallingford hotspot its Best New Restaurant.

“When I learned that Johnny Courtney had peeled off from Canlis, one of the best old restaurants in America, I couldn’t help but be intrigued. When I saw that his own restaurant, Atoma, occupied the bottom floor of a Craftsman house in Seattle’s Wallingford neighborhood, I was charmed. And when I read the menu, I was excited,” Esquire wrote.

“Fermented radish cakes with geoduck and clam-belly aioli. Crumpets with koji butter. Dungeness crab with crab phat sabayon. Atoma’s in the Pacific Northwest, so you know the menu will change with the seasons, but one mainstay is a crispy, savory, flower-shaped cookie that’s pumped with a soft cheese and sweet jam made from Washington’s finest Walla Walla onions. Pair that with a glass of good grower Champagne and tell me you’re not excited, too.”

Eater also praised the restaurant, which Courtney and his wife, Sarah, opened in the space once occupied by Seattle favorite Tilth, which closed during the pandemic after a 14-year run. “Atoma occupies a Wallingford Craftsman house,” Eater Editor Harry Cheadle wrote. “The dining room is crowded and cheerful. The cocktail menu is loaded with puns. But the deliberate casualness conceals the ambition of the kitchen. There are dozens of “new American” or “Pacific Northwest” restaurants in Seattle that put local and seasonal ingredients at the forefront of what they do, but it feels like Atoma just raised the bar.”

Seattle is full of great restaurants. It’s a culinary capital of America. But this one totally stands out.

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