July 2012

30-Something and Loving It
Five wines that reflect the best of 30-something Washington vineyards
Mark Ryan 2009 Long Haul, $48This wine shows what Klipsun Vineyard fruit can do in a blend. All the fruit comes from Red Mountain, with 68 percent from Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, 24 percent from Klipsun and 8 percent from Kiona Vineyards. A Merlot-based Bordeaux-style blend, this wine (64 percent Merlot, 27 percent Cabernet Franc,…

Why 30-Year-Old Wines are the New Rock Stars
Washington vineyards in their early 30s make their names with vineyard-designated wines.
Washington winemakers are used to the spotlight; their industry’s spectacular growth over the past 30 years has gained them plenty of fame. But these days, you may be just as likely to hear the term “rock star” connected to the people who grow the grapes. Dick Boushey is one such rock star, an unassuming farmer…

Sandwiches at Café Cesura in Bellevue
From the fine espresso to decidedly uncorporate air, this is a refreshingly good lunch spot.
In a room nearly as lofty as it is deep, with polished concrete floors and light pouring in through east-facing windows, laptop jockeys and lunchers share space at a honed wood table carved out of a cross-section of a tree. Stumptown coffee is on offer, along with assorted sandwiches and salads. The best one I…

The Fat Hen is a Gem
A few brilliant items manage to find room in this tiny, bustling brunch spot.
Light, bright and cheerful, Ballard’s The Fat Hen (across the street from Delancey) is a gem of a find with a honeycomb-tile backsplash, whitewashed wainscoting and a glass case of irresistible, original treats. Open for lunch and brunch only (with a recently added Friday dinner), the short menu lists several versions of baked eggs, some…

Mezcaleria de Oaxaca is Hot!
At this Queen Anne Mexican restaurant, the food ranges from good to great.
Ten minutes into my first dinner at Mezcaleria, the Queen Anne sister restaurant to Ballard’s excellent La Carta de Oaxaca, I could no longer feel my tongue. That’s a plus in my book; spice is nice. If heat is your thing, too, Mezcaleria should be on your short list of restaurants to try. Start with…

‘Tis the Season for Tomatoes
Billy's tomatoes are dressed for a special occasion (summer!) at Walrus and the Carpenter
When summer tomatoes are at their fragrant best, their acidic edge balanced by ripe sweetness—for what seems like a hot minute between July and September—it’s best to treat them as you would your other ripest fruits, your peaches and plums: Barely gild the lily. The Walrus and the Carpenter’s tomatoes with vanilla and olive oilis this philosophy come…

Digging for Geoducks
Langdon Cook digs deep to suss out the wily Washington geoduck.
Like climbing Mount Rainier, fishing for steelhead or performing a microbrew pub crawl across Seattle, digging for the wily geoduck is an exercise in regional identity. Although a few of the big clams live as far south as Baja California, Puget Sound is a stronghold of abundance, and it is here where the art of…

The King of Chinese Eggplants
Head to Westover farm for a fresh crop of this hard-to-find vegetable.
Although he grows a mean Chinese eggplant—a rare variety not found elsewhere in the Seattle area—Westover Farm’s Darrell Westover admits he’s not the biggest eggplant fan. “I learned that it’s not what you like, but what the customer wants,” Westover says. “I’ve had enough customers tell me how good it is. I’m not bashful about…

5 Different Ways to Enjoy Salmon in Seattle
Get your fresh salmon fix with one of these five delightful local dishes.
Sushi Kappo TamuraThis Eastlake hot spot’s savory SALMON SASHIMI is as fresh as it gets, sliced and served with wasabi, soy sauce and tart lemon slices. $18. Eastlake, 2968 Eastlake Ave. E; 206.547.0937; sushikappotamura.com Market GrillThe Market Grill’s GRILLED SALMON SANDWICH is one of the best. Blackened wild coho salmon is served on a baguette…
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