Travel

Explore the Ancient Lakes Trail and the Western Edge of the Columbia Gorge with a Trip to Quincy

After hiking the spectacular trail, indulge with a night at a posh resort

By Kristen Russell April 28, 2018

1-lead_13

This article originally appeared in the May 2018 issue of Seattle magazine.

This article appears in print in the May 2018 issue, as part of the “Sunny Getaways” cover story. Click here to subscribe.

Leave the Seattle area’s low cloud deck in the rear-view mirror and strike out for the arid side of our state. Destination: the western edge of the Columbia Gorge, just a two-and-a half-hour drive from Seattle near the town of Quincy, where the sun is shining and highs are in the mid-70s right about now. Your itinerary for the weekend: an easy hike through an enchanting, ancient landscape, followed by wine tasting, cliff dwelling and a stint at a spa.

Set out early to arrive at the Ancient Lakes trailhead by noon—before the heat and crowds arrive. This trail is beloved among day hikers and backpackers alike, and with good reason: Prolific payoff views are rarely this easily come by in the Northwest.

Your easy 2-mile meander takes you past million-year-old lakes, ringed by towering basalt cliffs.

You wanted warm, and this hike delivers, with nary a tree to cast a shadow and hawks circling overhead on sage-scented thermals. Pause awhile next to the second waterfall to gaze out across the coulee. Debate the merits of the relatively steep scree scramble down to the lake. If you’re game, ring the lake and wind through more dramatic desert vistas before eventually dropping down to the Columbia River.

After a hike on the Ancient Lakes trail, spend the night at luxe Cave B Inn and Spa. Photographs by: Kristen Russell (Ancient Lakes); Cave B (exterior). 

Return to your car for the 25-minute drive to Cave B Inn and Spa Resort, a lovely, low-slung resort perched 900 feet above the Columbia River, designed by Seattle architect Tom Kundig of Olson Kundig. Plan ahead to score one of the romantic and gorgeously appointed Cliffehouses, each of which features a two-sided gas fireplace, soft leather couch, soaking tub and sweeping view of the gorge. Be sure to time your stay to coincide with (or to avoid!) the lively scene at the Gorge Amphitheatre next door. 

Shake off the last of your city stress with aromatherapy at Cave B’s serene little spa, and then wander a path among grapevines to the tasting room of Cave B Estate Winery, one of only a dozen or so wineries in the Ancient Lakes AVA. A variety of estate-grown reds and whites are poured here; take a bottle of the Cave B Cuvée Blanc back to sip on your patio as you watch the sunset paint the gorge orange.

Then gorge yourself on locally sourced fare in Tendrils, the resort’s restaurant, and raise a glass to your escape from the Seattle spring. 

Sun meter: On average, Quincy receives 194 days of sun annually.
Getting there: Quincy is 160 miles east of Seattle and about a three-hour drive.

The Ancient Lakes trailhead is about 10 miles south of Quincy. Find details at the Washington Trails Association site. Discover Pass required.
Cave B Inn and Spa, Quincy, 344 Silica Road NW; 509.787.800. From $139. 

Follow Us

Hidden Washington: The Other Vancouver

Hidden Washington: The Other Vancouver

Explore rich history and vibrant scenery on the north bank of the Columbia River 

The English explorer George Vancouver and his associates embarked on a naming spree in the Pacific Northwest unlike any seen before. In his fantastic book...

A Stunning BC Beauty

A Stunning BC Beauty

Check out Manning Park. Just don't tell anyone about it.

During early spring, when the snowpack is deep in the Northwest, and the ski resorts are still buzzing with enthusiasts getting their last turns in before the season runs out, my wife, Kristy, and I like to head further north to Canada. Photo by Sophia Yip/Getty Images

Chasing the Solar Eclipse: Seattle to Indianapolis

Chasing the Solar Eclipse: Seattle to Indianapolis

The city is near the center of the totality of the eclipse

On April 8, the heavens will put on a spectacular show as a total solar eclipse graces the skies, forging a path from Mazatlán to Montreal. For those seeking this unforgettable experience many prime destinations beckon, from the Texas Hill Country to Buffalo. For us, Indianapolis emerged as a prime destination, lying near the center

Ruby Beach Recognized as One of the World's Best  

Ruby Beach Recognized as One of the World’s Best  

Sparkling red and strewn with sea stacks, Washington's rugged shoreline stands out

Situated on the Olympic Peninsula, a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Seattle, Ruby Beach is known for its towering sea stacks sculpted by centuries of wind and waves, and its thriving tide pools.