As a restaurant critic, I hope my reviews don’t sound like broken records—that I’m not recommending the same dishes at different restaurants.

When I was young, my parents had a Chinese restaurant. In those years, I packed more takeout orders and walked more steps to and from the kitchen than clicks on a viral video.

During my early 20s, I worked in the kitchens of several Seattle restaurants. It was sweaty work, tiring but satisfying.