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Hello Darkness, My Old Friend

With a renewed focus on the environment, sustainable travel, and unique experiences, dark sky tourism is on the rise

A silhouette of a person stands on a rocky terrain under a sky full of stars and the Milky Way galaxy, capturing the essence of autumn with its crisp, clear atmosphere—an essential moment for any stargazer.
Photo courtesy of National Park Service

This article originally appeared in the September/October 2024 issue of Seattle magazine.

This is the year of celestial magic. On April 8, a total eclipse of the sun rocked the continent, from Mazatlan to Indianapolis to Montreal, as millions flocked to the path of totality. One month later, on May 10, the most intense aurora borealis in 20 years dazzled the skies above Seattle in a shimmering spectacle of electric pink, green, and blue.

With each extraterrestrial event, our interest in the cosmos only grows. This fall, the unpredictable but promising comet named Tsuchinshan-ATLAS has the potential to shine as brightly as Venus, visible to the naked eye and peaking in mid-October. This will be followed in quick succession by the Orionid and Leonid meteor showers, each capable of etching the night with intense streaks of flaming fireballs.

The sky never ceases to astonish us with its wonders, yet challenges remain. Light pollution continues to blot our urban centers, aiming countless megawatts at the heavens, seemingly broadcasting to distant civilizations just how wasteful we truly are. In the Pacific Northwest, the I-5 corridor fills the sky with a hazy glow more than 300 miles long, from Vancouver, British Columbia, to Portland. By one estimate, 80% of Americans cannot see our home galaxy, the Milky Way, due to light pollution.

Fortunately, change is underway. Thanks to groups such as DarkSky International, urban dwellers now have more options. What makes these new dark sky zones different from the summer camp skies of our youth is the momentum and clout these organizations carry: funding, regulations, and oversight. Numerous cities and hotels — even a brewery — now promote dark night skies among their offerings.

Here are some great options for seeking out celestial wonders in the region while not straying too far from a tasty restaurant, a convivial tavern, and a comfy hotel bed.

Bend & Central Oregon

DarkSky Oregon launched in August 2019 to preserve Oregon’s dark skies and reduce light pollution. Central Oregon is a stargazer’s mecca, with proximity to the largest dark sky zone in the Lower 48, the Oregon Outback International Dark Sky Sanctuary. The region’s commitment to reducing light pollution, and its crystal-clear high desert nights, create ideal conditions for viewing the heavens. Central Oregon also offers several top-quality observatories for galaxy gawkers, including Pine Mountain Observatory, Sunriver Nature Center and Observatory, and the Asterisk Observatory at The Spot in Smith Rock.

Hardcore space cadets and casual viewers alike will thrill to the Hopservatory at Worthy Brewing in Bend, which combines astronomy with craft beer. Under the guidance of a professional astronomer, the Hopservatory simplifies the night sky for all to enjoy with a pint. Visitors can explore the wonders of the universe with the opportunity to see the moon, planets, stars, and galaxies. The breathtaking views of the night sky — combined with excellent food and beer — make this spot a must-visit before or after journeying into the hinterlands for true dark sky exploration.

Astral activities abound. The Oregon Outback International Dark Sky Sanctuary is just a two-hour drive south from Bend, or easily accessible via Redmond Municipal Airport. Events like the Oregon Star Party in the Ochoco National Forest attract hundreds of participants annually. Wanderlust Tours offers year-round excursions, including cowboy dinners in the outback, starlight viewing by canoe, and winter snowshoe tours.

In downtown Bend, the Campfire Hotel offers a cozy Stargazing Package, with flasks and mugs for liquid warmers, pour-over coffee kits, and a campfire blanket. Sunriver, the unincorporated town and resort near the slopes of Mount Bachelor, was certified as a “Dark Sky Friendly Development of Distinction’’ in 2020, the first of its kind in the state. Tetherow, a resort and residential community, explored the day sky — that’s right, the day — this past summer with its Thursday Mega Star solar viewing events replete with a NASA JPL solar system ambassador onsite. Your parents’ star charts, this is not.

Sun Valley & Central Idaho

In Central Idaho, the clear night sky is a valued heritage, passed down over the centuries from our indigenous predecessors to the present day. In 2017, after nearly two decades of initiatives and teamwork by municipal leaders to reduce light pollution and preserve the night sky, DarkSky International designated the Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve as the first dark sky reserve in the United States. This reserve covers more than 900,000 acres in the center of Idaho, and includes the communities of Sun Valley, Ketchum, and Stanley, as well as the Sawtooth National Recreation Area.

The reserve works to cut down light pollution, protect nighttime environments, and help local wildlife. Wattage is restricted, and exterior lights must be covered or downward facing. The initiative shows how dark sky-friendly lighting can save energy, boost the economy, and attract visitors. The reserve also boosts astronomy education and celebrates dark skies as a community responsibility.

Check in with Visit Sun Valley for Dark Sky Dinners at the Sawtooth Botanical Garden — farm to greenhouse meals glitter under the stars with wine and outdoor fire pits as accents. Knob Hill, Trail Creek, Galena Summit, and Redfish Lake all provide in this vast swath of darkness. Hotel Ketchum also maintains a calendar of celestial events, supporting and participating in dark sky tourism

Southeast of Sun Valley, Craters of the Moon National Monument became an International Dark Sky Park in 2017. Known for its pitch-dark skies and vast, other-worldly lava flows, the location is ideal for celestial tripping. Each summer and fall, Star Parties let visitors explore the galaxy with telescopes and guidance from Pocatello Astronomical Society volunteers. Check the park’s event calendar for details on upcoming events.

Coeur D’Alene & North Idaho

Nestled in the Idaho Panhandle near the Washington border, Coeur d’Alene makes an ideal pit stop on the celestial circuit with its clear skies and minimal light pollution. The city is one of the most picturesque in the Inland Northwest, with magnificent vistas of mountains and forests against the weeping backdrop of Lake Coeur d’Alene. Located smack dab in downtown Coeur d’Alene, Tubbs Hill is the place to go for planet-peeping, with 120 acres of elevated, unobstructed, prime viewing territory. Across the water just 11 miles east, the Mineral Ridge Scenic Area has a 3.3-mile hiking loop, and another elevated viewing site for staring deep into space to contemplate the mysteries of the cosmos.

For a more citified outdoor experience — you know, with hors d’oeuvres and craft cocktails — The Coeur d’Alene Resort takes reservations for the clear igloos on its lakeside Whispers patio. The tiny, brightly lit domes blend heated, waterproof comfort, nature views, and delectable food and drink. While perhaps too well-lit for viewing a dim distant object, the igloos would have just the right amount of light for an intimate full moon party.

The Coeur d’Alene Astronomy Club and the North Idaho Astronomy Club also regularly host public events at Mineral Ridge and Farragut State Park, complete with high-powered telescopes and expert guidance.

Central & Eastern Washington

Just outside Spokane, the Spokane Astronomical Society hosts regular Star Parties at Fishtrap Recreation Area. The primary dark sky observing site is located on Bureau of Land Management property 33 miles southwest of Spokane, with all but the last mile or two paved.

The Washington State Star Party is a must-attend annual event for Pacific Northwest astronomy buffs. In August 2024 it was held at Jameson Lake, just 30 miles north of Ephrata, and is less than a four-hour drive from Seattle to provide easier access. From professional scientists to fascinated beginners, everyone is welcome. The event also features speakers, seminars, a swap meet, and daytime exploration.

Located 45 minutes outside of Walla Walla, between Waitsburg and Dayton, the Jasper Mountain Reserve offers 13 miles of impeccably groomed trails for runners and hikers, with epic views of the Blue Mountains. As of this writing, it plans to introduce celestial soirées into the calendar of events for next year, so check the website when you visit the area.

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