Travel
Hidden PNW: Portland’s Central Eastside
Hip, trendy neighborhood gives off a true Portlandia vibe
By Natalie Compagno and Greg Freitas October 24, 2024
Portland’s Central Eastside, just across the river from downtown, was once known for industrial warehouses. Today, it buzzes with new restaurants, breweries, distilleries, and curated shops. The neighborhood celebrity is Haitian comfort food haven Kann, and its A-list bar Sousol. Reservations require advance planning and are well worth the effort. Foodies swoop in solely for the experience, and those in the know stay for a few days to savor this exciting, walkable neighborhood.
Where to Stay: Hotel Grand Stark
Located in the heart of the neighborhood, Hotel Grand Stark is an ideal base for exploration. From the chic Palisociety group, the boutique hotel embodies the Central Eastside’s unique character. Housed in a restored early 20th-century building, it seamlessly blends vintage charm with contemporary design. The rooms are colorfully decorated, with retro touches and modern comforts. The lobby doubles as a busy lounge, with travelers, nomads, and characters reminiscent of the spoof TV show Portlandia sharing the welcoming space, laptops open and coffee drinks in hand.
Onsite restaurant Grand Amari makes for a convenient and convivial place to meet friends and dine on Italian food standards. The adjacent Little Bitter Bar has snacks and great cocktails. During happy hour, locals spill onto the patio with bottles and bites, enjoying their burgeoning neighborhood.
Destination Dining: Kann
Chef Gregory Gourdet’s Haitian restaurant Kann is the hottest table in town. Gourdet has been on a roll lately, winning James Beard Awards in three consecutive years for Best Cookbook, Best New Restaurant in 2023, and this year the coveted Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific. Kann is a destination dining experience that celebrates Haitian cuisine, deeply rooted in tradition but with modern flair: gluten–free, dairy-free, all cooked over an open flame.
Gourdet’s commitment to seasonality ensures that each dish offers local ingredients, while still honoring classic Haitian recipes. The fall menu has arrived, and highlights include espegeti kokiyaj (handmade pasta with grilled scallops and creole sauce) and poul ak nwa, a cashew chicken masterpiece from the country’s north side.
The journey begins upon check-in as excited guests line up for one of two seatings. The crowd is eclectic and eager, and the staff welcome visitors with just the right amount of attention. The restaurant’s decor reflects a harmonious blend of modern minimalism and Haitian cultural elements, with warm wooden accents, colorful art pieces, and lush greenery.
The cocktail program dovetails perfectly with the Haitian menu, so order a Bel Plaj (Haitian rum with coconut milk) and transport yourself to the Caribbean. For a soirée gastronomique, take the fete to Sousol, Gourdet’s island vibe bar — if your island vibe has dark elegant wallpaper and fuchsia banquettes. Sip more cocktails while indulging in Caribbean street treats like doubles and salt cod fritters. N’ap boule!
More Excellent Ethnic Eateries
Chef Carlo Lamagna’s innovative dishes celebrate the cultural flavors of the Philippines with a palate-pleasing twist at Magna Kusina. Signature dishes such as crispy pork belly and pancit (Filipino stir-fried noodles) are full of bold flavors, while inventive small plates and vegan-friendly options make the restaurant accessible to all. Magna Kusina’s cool, laid-back space fits perfectly into Portland’s eclectic dining scene. Belly up to the small bar for intimate cocktail creation viewing: The Tam-ina, with whisky, tamarind, vermouth, and Campari, is the drink of choice.
A Portland institution, Nong’s Khao Man Gai started as a humble food cart and has since grown into one of the city’s beloved eateries. The specialty is simple but beyond satisfying: Thai chicken and rice, served with a flavorful ginger-garlic sauce. Paired with perfect jasmine rice and peanut sauce or steamed broccoli, it’s Thai comfort food for any occasion. The Central Eastside location keeps the food cart vibes and offers tofu variations and flavorful soups, along with indoor and outdoor seating.
For a dessert that’s a work of art, or a mezcal cocktail with panache, Libre brings bold Mexican flavors to a sexy, swanky lounge setting. Sweets and drinks are the stars at this all-women and BIPOC-owned neighborhood newcomer. It’s the perfect place for a nightcap, daycap, or anytime you crave a No Me Conoces — a decadent sculpture of banana, bourbon, yuzu, and hazelnut.
Craft Brews & Bites
Beer is of course an integral part of Portland’s identity, and Wayfinder Beer is a standout in the Central Eastside. Nationally famous as the inventor of the Cold IPA, its lagers are also crisp, clean, and well crafted. Check out the rotating selection of experimental ales and seasonal brews. The outdoor beer garden is an inviting space to hang out with the locals and relax with a cold pint.
A 2022 addition to the Eastside scene, Grand Fir Brewing combines creative beers with a laid-back atmosphere. Married owners — brewer Whitney Burnside and chef Doug Adams — focus on bringing local flavors into their offerings, incorporating Pacific Northwest ingredients. Pair your drink with their highly elevated pub fare (the fried trout sandwich is amazing), and you’ve got a quintessential Portland beer experience.
For dark liquid lovers, Westward Whiskey showcases the art of small-batch distilling. Known for its bold, American single malts, Westward’s Eastside location lets visitors learn more about the process while sampling its flagship bottles.
Out & About Along the Willamette River
The Central Eastside is just across the river from downtown, so grab a bike and load up your picnic basket at Olympia Provisions. This iconic Portland establishment is famous for its charcuterie, and the Central Eastside outpost is the perfect place to sample them. Whether on two wheels or two feet, the waterfront loop offers you a chance to stretch your legs and take in some local flair with great views of the city.
Seattleites love to shop in Portland. Zero sales tax is only an excuse — the real reason is the chic creativity and cool vibe the boutiques seem to effortlessly possess. The Central Eastside packs a handful of fantastic indie boutiques into its compact footprint. Primecut has brightly hued, statement handbags; What’s New Furniture sells finds for home; Oko’s jeweled treasures tell stories; and the fashion at Seven Sisters is sleek and sustainable. After the shopping spree check out nearby OMSI, the Oregon Museum of Science & Industry.
Portlandia, indeed.