Travel
Let There Be Light: Not the Las Vegas You Remember
A two-and-a-half-hour flight from Seattle brings desert sunshine and bold reinvention
By Natalie Compagno and Greg Freitas December 31, 2024

This article originally appeared in the November/December 2024 issue of Seattle magazine.
Humans crave light. It fuels our bodies, lifts our moods, and makes even the darkest days feel a little brighter. When winter in the Pacific Northwest drags on, the trick is to learn from our feathered friends and fly south. In this three-part series, we’ll explore three escapes from the gray: Waikiki, Santa Barbara, and Las Vegas — each offering its own unique glow and approximately 300 days of sunshine per year.
Aside from year-round sunlight, Las Vegas is synonymous with the neon lights that transform the night into a sensory feast. But if you think you’ve been there and done that, you haven’t been to Vegas recently. An epic new hotel, combined with three quirky off-Strip attractions, makes it high time to return.
The most significant addition to the Las Vegas skyline in years was the highly anticipated, long-awaited Fontainebleau Las Vegas. The towering luxury resort topped out at 735 feet — the tallest habitable building in Nevada — and breathed new life into the northern Strip when it opened in December 2023. With 3,644 rooms and numerous food and drink options, it’s a city within the city — albeit a manageable one — and the brand newness of everything is almost shockingly pleasant.
From its expansive swimming pool areas to curated art installations throughout the property, the resort positions itself as more than a place to sleep and gamble. The hotel recently unveiled the Signature Series, interactive classes led by top chefs and beverage experts to inspire guests to bring gourmet techniques and flavors home to their own kitchens. Upcoming experiences include Discover Dim Sum, a master class with a Michelin-starred chef, and Barista Academy, a deep dive into beans and roasts with the trained staff. Learning the nuances of swan and rosetta latte art sounds fascinating, and is absolutely an essential skill for returning Seattleites.
Vegas locals and aficionados have been flocking to Fontainebleau since it opened for destination dining with jaw-dropping interior design. Highlights include Chyna Club for high-end Cantonese, Washing Potato for dim sum and outré décor, Kyu for pan-Asian with a cool, relaxed vibe, and La Fontaine for decadent brunches. Have a nightcap at Collins or Azul and plot your return — you could spend a week and not taste every bite.
Las Vegas has evolved into a hub for experiential attractions, and a winter visit wouldn’t be complete without diving into the city’s new offerings. Lapis Spa & Wellness at Fontainebleau is a refueling sanctuary for the winter blues. This tranquil escape features everything from hot stone massages to cold plunges, to an odd but interesting guided audiovisual sauna experience. A day in the spa will melt away any remnants of Seattle’s winter blues.

For a funky, whimsical, family-friendly experience, immerse yourself in the surreal world of Meow Wolf’s Omega Mart. This interactive art installation challenges reality with mind-bending visuals, quirky displays, and a vast, interconnected narrative with the other Meow Wolf sites. It’s an adventure in alternate dimensions, filled with surprises, secret passageways, and hidden clues at every turn. Don’t miss the attached “speakeasy” – the cocktails are every bit as parodic and inventive as the museum itself.
Punk rockers unite! And make time for The Punk Rock Museum, a shrine to the genre that opened in 2023 under the sponsorship of Fat Mike from veteran punkers NOFX. Packed with visceral photography, avant-garde flyers and zines, iconic instruments, and a real tattoo parlor, the museum does a comprehensive job of enshrining the movement while still celebrating punk’s rebellious spirit. The museum is a must-visit for all punk fans, whether they prefer Johnny Rotten or Joey Ramone.
Finally, witness the awe-inspiring Sphere, the cutting-edge entertainment venue unlike anything else. The interior might feature state-of-the-art audio and immersive experiences, but travelers will still be transfixed by its LED-covered exterior’s dazzling displays. The view above the stark desert floor from a perch high up in the Fontainebleau is mesmerizingly vivid, and the show continues until the sun peeks out from the east.