Travel
On the Trail of Kamehameha
The spirit of the great leader is alive and well on the Big Island of Hawaii
By Natalie Compagno and Greg Freitas January 23, 2025

This article originally appeared in the January/February 2025 issue of Seattle magazine.
Just because we mellow our brains and vibe on sunny beach vacations doesn’t mean we can’t be curious enough to learn about our hosts. Walk ankle-deep into surf and sand, but wade knee-deep into local culture. Just north of Kona, the Kohala Coast of Hawaii Island is a journey through the history of our 50th state. The legacy and spirit of King Kamehameha the Great, who united the islands in 1810, is all around you.
Begin the adventure at Kamehameha’s birthplace in Kapa’au, a small town in North Kohala. The legend maintains that the future emperor was born under a night sky streaked with an ominous comet, fulfilling a prophecy of a warrior king destined to rule. Though his birth date has been lost to time, Halley’s Comet passed overhead in late December 1758 — assuredly a sign from the gods. The region is humbling and awe-inspiring, with the 1 million-year-old Kohala volcano rising a mile high from the sea, and Haleakala on Maui looming on the horizon. In front of Kohala Civic Center, the iconic Kamehameha statue portrays the king with an outstretched hand in a gesture of strength.
Heading south along the coast, the landscape gradually transforms into one of the most sacred spots on the island: Pu’ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site. This immense stone heiau (temple) was built by Kamehameha in 1790 to honor the war god Kū and to ensure victory in his quest to unite the islands. Constructed through the relentless efforts of thousands of workers who passed stones hand to hand from 14 miles away, Pu’ukoholā Heiau stands as a testament to Kamehameha’s destiny. As you walk the trails around the heiau, look at the ocean below — the stone post marks the ruins of an underwater temple dedicated to the shark gods.
Before leaving, stop by Kawaihae Marketplace for a cold drink and what locals consider the best poke on the northwest coast. Gaze out on the hazardous ‘Alenuihāhā Channel, which separates Hawaii Island from Maui. Kamehameha and his 12,000 warriors crossed it using more than 1,000 canoes to begin their conquest.
Traveling the coast by boat with a local guide makes for an even more memorable visit. Capt. Ikaika Vivas is a local waterman who has sailed throughout the South Pacific, from Hawaii to Tahiti to New Zealand. Now he commands the Kalama Kai, a 42-foot Yellowfin sporting yacht that belongs to Mauna Lani resort. Highly recommended — resort guests can book the yacht for fishing and snorkeling trips, and Capt. Ikaika brings the tales of ancient Hawaii alive with knowledge and passion. Another intriguing option is palu ahi, or drop stone hand fishing, aboard the Kalama Kai. This ancient technique involves luring fish using a carefully prepared bag of weights, line, and chum. Under Ikaika’s guidance, guests learn the intricacies of this surprisingly effective method, while also gaining insight into how ancient Hawaiians sustainably harvested from the bountiful ocean.
Located on the sun-drenched coast in Kalāhuipua’a, Mauna Lani, an Auberge Resorts Collection property, offers more than just luxurious accommodations and stunning ocean views. Guests are invited to immerse themselves in a range of authentic experiences that connect them at a deeper level to the local traditions.
Mauna Lani’s 3 miles of coastline invite exploration of its rich natural and cultural heritage by e-bike. Guided tours lead guests to indigenous caves and ancient petroglyph fields, where carvings etched into volcanic rock tell the stories of generations past. The lava fields, or kīpuka, serve as an enduring link to the island’s history, and the tours emphasize respect and reverence for these sacred sites. Whizzing around on the white pedal-assist bikes is the best way to beat the afternoon heat.


Another highlight of Mauna Lani’s dedication to conservation is the resort’s ongoing efforts to restore the royal fish ponds, or loko i’a. These historic ponds, once essential to the livelihoods of Hawaiian royalty, have been lovingly revitalized, allowing guests to witness the sophisticated aquaculture system that sustained the community for centuries. As visitors walk around the peaceful ponds, they learn about the delicate balance of nurturing fish populations while protecting the surrounding ecosystem — a testament to Kamehameha’s legacy of sustainable resource management.
Mauna Lani’s work preserving and protecting the honu, or green sea turtles, stands out as well. Guests can observe the honu basking in the sun along the beaches and learn about the resort’s role in nurturing and releasing juvenile turtles back into the wild. Witnessing the gentle honu up close is a poignant reminder of the fragility of Hawaii’s marine life and the importance of conservation.

Just behind the best vantage point for these lazy turtles is a small cabin, the honeymoon cottage of Eva Parker Woods. The heiress to the local Parker Ranch cattle fortune, she never stayed there again after her wedding night. When asked about it, she mentioned that the cabin was too crowded, with ghosts no less. The cottage was moved a few feet back from the edge after locals realized that this was an important pathway for their ancestors to walk to the beach.
