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Sip, Swirl, and Stay

Exploring the Santa Ynez Valley 20 years after Sideways uncorked its charm

By Natalie Compagno and Greg Freitas October 10, 2024

The Santa Ynez Valley, made famous by the movie Sideways, celebrates 20 years of wine, food, and laid-back charm.
The Santa Ynez Valley, made famous by the movie Sideways, celebrates 20 years of wine, food, and laid-back charm.
Image still from Sideways

As Maya Randall from Sideways says, “I started to appreciate the life of wine, that it’s a living thing, that it connects you more to life.” Sideways turns 20 this month — the cult classic that won an Oscar, grossed $100 million, and transformed the American wine industry. The Sideways Effect is real, turning pinot noir, and the Santa Ynez Valley where the movie was set, into stars. Even with all the hype, the region has stayed down-to-earth and hasn’t lost its cozy, laid-back vibe.

Nestled among the mountain peaks of California’s Central Coast, the area makes a perfect getaway for wine lovers, foodies, cyclists, and anyone looking for a quick, relaxing escape. It’s about small-town charm, scenic vineyards, and seemingly endless world-class food, supplied by the local farms, ranches, and Pacific Ocean. Getting there from Seattle is easy, a two-and-a-half hour direct flight, followed by about an hour in a car from either Santa Barbara or San Luis Obispo.

You can sip and snack your way through the film locations — like Sanford Winery, Foxen Vineyard & Winery, and The Hitching Post 2 -– but there’s so much more to explore. The valley is made up of small towns that each bring something unique to the table. No matter where you go the food and wine are top-notch, so here are a few must-visits for each city.

Aerial view of a vineyard with a farmhouse surrounded by lush green hills under a partly cloudy sky, inviting guests to stay and enjoy the serene beauty.
Visit Sanford Winery in Lompoc, a featured filming location from the movie Sideways.
Photo courtesy of Sanford Winery
A bartender chats with two men seated at the wooden bar, their empty wine glasses poised after a satisfying swirl and sip. A few patrons linger in the background while wine bottles proudly stay on display along the wall.
Miles (Paul Giamatti) and Jack (Thomas Haden Church) tasting wine in this classic scene from Sideways.
Photo courtesy of Hitching Post II Restaurant & Winery

Small Town Stops

Los Olivos exudes rustic elegance, with tree-lined streets, trendy boutiques, and over 50 tasting rooms that will make you feel like you’ve stumbled into wine country heaven. Located next to the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn, Nella Kitchen & Bar features Italian-inspired cooking that is upscale and totally fabulous. Enjoy a finely crafted meal while overhearing the local gossip, then choose from the thoughtful cocktail menu that is the most interesting in the valley. The Other Room is a tremendous taproom in this mecca of wine, with the full array of Russian River offerings on draught and in bottles. And if you want all out luxury for lodgings, The Inn at Mattei’s Tavern is the spot. It’s a dreamy blend of Auberge Resort in renovated 1880 Craftsman houses, complete with deluxe day spa Lavender Barn.

Nella Kitchen & Bar in Los Olivos offers upscale, Italian-inspired dishes.
Photo courtesy of Nella Kitchen

Want a taste of the Old West? Santa Ynez blends cowboy cool with chic wine bars and delectable dining. It’s like stepping back in time but with better chow. Go line dancing to live music with the locals at Maverick Saloon, then step into hotel The Genevieve for classic wine country rural charm. On-site restaurant The Victor features farm to fork in a relaxed setting from Chef Andrew Rodriguez, with an elevated fish to fork menu as well. The valley’s proximity to the rich coastal waters makes it prime seafood country, think local sea bass and ceviche tostadas.

The Victor serves farm-to-fork dishes and fresh seafood in a relaxed, rustic setting.
Photos courtesy of The Victor

Miniscule but mighty, Los Alamos is the valley’s comeback success story, climbing out of obscurity thanks in part to a beloved local bakery. Bob’s Well Bread opened in an old 1920s gas station in 2014 and revitalized what had been a faded town, according to locals. Now cool eateries and quirky hotels proliferate. Los Alamos’ first culinary darling, Pico serves up inventive dishes made with local ingredients, all paired with an extensive list of the best wines the valley has to offer. Pico also excels at seafood dishes, from anchovies and tuna tartare, to fresh line caught fish from nearby Gaviota. Bell’s opened in 2018 and earned a Michelin star, putting the tiny town on foodie destination maps worldwide. For hipster lodgings with attitude, Skyview Los Alamos is perfect for couples and small groups. This retro-cool motel has hilltop views of the valley, a pool with happy hour, and a diner aptly named Norman — it fits eerily well underneath the giant Motel sign outside.

Michelin-starred Bell’s brings French-inspired cuisine to the heart of Los Alamos.
Photo by Carter Hiyama, courtesy of Bell's
A modern room with a yellow couch, blue lamps, and a glass coffee table invites you to stay. A wall-mounted TV hangs beside the small fireplace, while white paneled walls contrast with a sliding barn door, creating a cozy swirl of contemporary design.
Skyview Los Alamos features retro-modern rooms with hilltop views of the valley.
Photo courtesy of Skyview Motel Room

Warehouse atmosphere meets casual dining in Buellton. It might be low-key and have some national chains, but the office park on Industrial Way has great food, beer, and wine. Locals love Industrial Eats, a chill setting for order-at-the-counter butcher shop sandwiches and pizzas. The ever-changing menu is packed with creative, wood-fired deliciousness. Around the corner in an industrial park, the Figueroa Mountain Brewing mothership looms, with pool tables, a huge outdoor patio, and epic brews and views.

Solvang is kitschy and touristy for sure, after all it’s a mini-Denmark in Central California. But it is legit, sort of, with its founding based on the town’s Danish settler heritage. And you can’t help but love Solvang’s quirky Danish architecture and sweet treats. Come for the wine, stay for the pastries. If nothing else, Solvang is of special interest to Seattleites — it once served as the inspiration for Leavenworth.

Beyond the Rim

When it’s time to work off all that wine and cheese, Dr. J’s Bike Shop is your go-to for two-wheeled adventures, with high quality rentals and friendly, expert staff. Touring the punchy hills in Foxen Canyon makes for a gorgeous, exhilarating ride. Or take a guided bike tour of the vineyards for a scenic way to soak in the valley’s beauty. It’s the perfect mix of fresh air, exercise, and more wine. Hikers will love the local challenges, from easy (Nojoqui Falls) to difficult (Gaviota Peak) and everything in between.

Cyclists in bright clothing relax at picnic tables near a vineyard, swirling and sipping local wine, with parked bikes in the foreground.
Dr. J’s Bike Shop is your go-to for rentals and scenic rides through Foxen Canyon.
Photo courtesy of Santa Barbara Wine Country Cycling Tours

Final Sip

For any visit to Santa Ynez Valley it definitely pays to rewatch Sideways. The pride the movie instilled in the local community is still palpable, 20 years later. The mix of locals, locations, and wine references pairs perfectly with a bottle from your home cellar. But if you know the movie: Just don’t open a merlot.

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