What’s New at Coastal Kitchen

This Capitol Hill staple closed and reopened with some improvements.

By Seattle Mag

0313coastalkitchen

April 5, 2013

This article originally appeared in the March 2013 issue of Seattle Magazine.

After Coastal Kitchen’s 20-year run as a beloved neighborhood staple, its owner, Jeremy Hardy, closed the old girl for a few months to give her a facelift, including, most noticeably, a new bar for cocktails; the original bar is now dedicated to oysters. There’s also new talent in the kitchen: Jason Jones, who once cooked at Poppy. But if my recent dinner is proof, the menu has yet to see the revision given to the décor. Coriander-crusted, seared albacore tuna was overcooked and served over gloppy squash ($23.75). Cuban Pete’s Shipwreck, a loose interpretation of paella with plump mussels and clams, chorizo and soft sweet peppers, was better, though not by much.

Best were the oysters singing with fresh seawater ($25/dozen), and a plate of sublime ahi tuna dressed in grassy olive oil and crunchy salt, a fresh herb salad alongside ($12.25; the latter dish is part of the Sicily menu, a portion of the menu that changes every few months). I’ll make my next visit during breakfast time on a weekday, when regulars take their time leisurely reading the paper and sipping coffee. I can satisfy my huevos rancheros ($8.75) cravings: Here, two bright—though tame—salsas enliven perfectly poached eggs atop crisp corn tortillas and creamy beans. Salt cod hash ($12.25) and the smoked salmon scramble ($12.25) are also sure bets. And the oysters. The oysters do shine. Take a note: One of the best opportunities to sample these new delights is during the late-night happy hour (10 pm to midnight), when they’re $1.25 each (regularly $3 each) and a glass of wine and draft beers are only $4.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Capitol Hill, 429 15th Ave. E; 206.322.1145; coastalkitchenseattle.com $$